The seam should still be hanging slightly below your shoulder, not at the top of it. Cut 4 cm (small/medium) to 6 cm (large/xl) from the shoulder top (4) and create a gentle curve to the armpit, or draw a straight line from the top (4) to the armpit (see photo further below). If you feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, you may shape the armholes a bit (common if you have a large chest but narrow shoulders). You can always draw it out, cut a little, try it on, draw a bit more, cut and so on, until you are satisfied with the look. If you don’t want a slit, you might need to make the neck opening a bit deeper/wider in order to fit your head. If I want a slit at the front (3) I cut it around another 10 cm deep. The back I cut out around 5-6 cm deep, the front (2) is cut 10-15 cm deep. These are my general measures: small-medium: 1 = 18 cm. When measuring for a fitted sleeve, always measure around your bent elbow. I recommend drafting the front, back and side gores either along or across the length of the fabric (do all these in the same direction) the sleeve may go along or across, depending on what is more convenient (the shirt will look better with this method).Ī note on sleeve measures: this sleeve doesn’t sit on top of the shoulder when finished, it hangs on your upper arm (see photo at the beginning), which makes this measuring method work. This is just an example, do a draft with your measures and lay out the pieces in a way that suits you. As you can see if you would like to have side gores instead of slits in your shirt, nr. I will add 1 cm, between 1-2 cm is recommended.Įxample: Add 1 cm to all edges around your pieces, like this: The space between seam and fabric edge= seam allowance. What is that? Seams always need to be a bit from the edge of the fabric in order to be durable. That’s it! (we already added ease into the sleeve by making sure we could pull the hand through, and the sleeve base by adding extra room there) Split this measure in 2 for front and back: 53 cm each. I usually calculate 6% of the circumference around your body, 10% if I want a loose fit.Įxample: 100 cm + 6 cm (6% of 100 cm) =106 cm. Therefore, we will add extra space for movement.
What is that? If you were going to cut out your pieces with the above measures, the shirt would fit tight along your skin, making it impossible to move, or take it on and off. This means the sleeve base will be 60 cm, and the armhole on the body parts will be 30 cm on front and 30 on back. Circumference around your hand/wrist: 28 cm Length of sleeve from shoulder to wrist: 70 cm Circumference around the widest part of your upper body, often the chest: 100 cm. Lenght of finished shirt from shoulder to hemline: 100 cm Example (with measures) so you can see how I do this:
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